Playing in Calcutta

Hello dear readers.  Gretchen here.  Katherine and I have decided to approach Calcutta as playfully as possible, an attitude which has transformed our relationships to everyone we meet!  Here is a montage of noticings:

• The city has a bad rep around the world--for being dirty, destitute, and dark--but we've found it one of our more pleasant India experiences.  The weather has been a constant 70 degrees, the underground metro makes travelling about a breeze (and inexpensive, too, for only Rs4 a ride), the traffic lights and crosswalks actually work and are used, and there are even policemen at intersections to make sure that rules are followed!
• I've been scared to buy from street vendors, because I've known that I need to bargain. But when I saw the sweetest little outfit for my nephew-to-be, I knew I was ready to practice.  The vendor charged me Rs 250, I countered with Rs 100, and we settled on Rs 125 after I threatened to leave.  Success!
• Also in the spirit of play, Katherine and I made the split second decision to go into an exhibition at the College of Design.  A delighted young man gave us a personal tour of all the artwork made by his fellow students.  He was eager to explain to us about how a true artist cannot be taught, that artistry is from within.  He loved showing off his friends work, remarking "Too Good!" or "Too Cute!"  His own paintings were quite striking, goddess imagery painted in traditional methods but with contemporary flair (one goddess was wearing high heels; evidently in most ancient indian art, you never see women with shoes on).
• Did you know that Calcutta is the FIRST city of the British Empire built anywhere in the world?!  Because this is where the British got to practice what it means to colonize, there are gigantic Victorian monuments everywhere, and even the layout of the city copies London in many ways.  K & I attempted to visit the Victoria Memorial (http://www.victoriamemorial-cal.org/).  The crowds were insane--throngs of families and school groups--and the queue was too long for our patience. Instead, we went to the huge green, and watched at least a hundred groups of boys playing cricket.  Whereas we thought these crowds were normal, the newspaper the next day revealed that there were record crowds who took to the streets to celebrate the final Sunday in 2007!

Sigh!  There's more to say, but I've already overstayed my welcome.  Trying to keep these short, but it's not working.  Love to you all...